Journey just 28 miles south-west from the mainland and you’ll feel as though you’ve somehow stepped on to an exotic film set. On a sunny day, the breathtakingly beautiful Isles of Scilly could easily be mistaken for somewhere in the Caribbean, where palm trees sway in the sea breeze, bright flowers blossom in wild hedgerows and shallow turquoise waters glisten in between 140 tiny islands.
Only five islands are inhabited and evidence of human life is subdued – you’ll find no big hotels or holiday villages – and the only noise you’re likely to hear will come from the breaking of waves and the cawing gulls above.
Whichever island you visit, you’re rarely more than a ten-minute walk from some of the finest beaches in Britain – and with so few people there, there’s a good chance you’ll have them all to yourself. All characterised by pale, fine sand with shimmery grains of silver, the beaches boast a tropical charm you would expect to find thousands of miles away.
Particular highlights include Pentle Bay on Tresco, with its shallow waters and low sand dunes, Porthloo Beach on St Mary’s for rock pool discoveries, Town Beach on St Mary’s for beachcombing and Great Bay on St Martin’s for swimming.
At first glance, it looks as though there is little other than fish and seaweed beneath the waves. But these waters support a wealth of marine flora and fauna – from soft coral and seagrass beds, to visiting dolphins and basking sharks. A grey seal colony also resides just south of St Martin’s Island, where you can get up close on a snorkeling excursion.
Local artists and craftspeople make and sell their work at Phoenix Craft Studios on St Mary’s. You’ll find ceramics, seaglass and fabrics – book ahead to join a workshop where you can create your own Scilly souvenir.
Tropical Tresco
A subtropical paradise, Tresco Abbey Garden is brimming with exotic plants that would stand no chance of survival on the mainland. Built in the 19th Century around the ruins of a Benedictine Abbey, it is home to 20,000 exotic plant species from towering palms to desert cacti and crimson flame trees, all nurtured by the temperate Gulf Stream which passes nearby.
It’s quite easy to while away a day strolling along sunny terraces and gazing out across the borders towards the Atlantic Ocean. Even those who aren’t gardening enthusiasts will enjoy the fusion of scents, sights and sounds that surprise around every corner. As well as an enchanting horticultural display, you’ll also find some brilliant sculptures and the Valhalla museum – a collection of figureheads from shipwrecks.
Hop to it
Join one of the colourful boat trips and island hop around Scilly – you can even visit the islands whose only residents are the wildlife. Depending on the time of year, you have a good chance of spotting seabirds – including puffins, shearwaters, cormorants, shags, kittiwakes, razorbills, guillemots and petrels – gliding across the open water or perching precariously on cliff edges.
In the evenings, ‘supper boats’ give visitors the chance to sample tasty fayre from the various pubs and restaurants across the main islands. All boat journey details are advertised on the day of travel, as sea conditions often dictate what options are available to the boatmen.
Travel back in time
The Isles of Scilly Museum is packed with an eclectic mix of historical items, including material from wrecks, prehistoric and Roman-British artefacts, natural and social history and lots of local art. Among these are Neolithic remains, clay pipes left behind by generations of sailors and a small exhibition on Edward Heath – the prime minister who adored Scilly so much he was buried here.
But Scilly’s history isn’t confined to its museum. This tiny landmass is home to an incredible 239 outdoor ancient monuments and archaeological sites. From maritime shipwrecks and Bronze Age burial chambers dating back 3,000 years, to deserted Christian chapels on uninhabited islands and heavily fortified castles, as well as headlands from the English Civil War – you can explore all of these on guided walking tours.
Top tip!
You can reach St Mary’s – Scilly’s largest island – in under 60 minutes via Skybus, departing from either Land’s End, Newquay or Exeter Airports. Alternatively, you can take the scenic, three-hour ferry journey from Penzance
Handy contacts
Scilly Tourist Information Centre – 01720 620600 www.visitislesofscilly.com
Tresco Abbey Gardens – www.tresco.co.uk
Phoenix Craft Studios – 01720 422900 www.phoenixcrafts.moonfruit.com
Scilly Seal Snorkeling – 01720 422848 www.scillysealsnorkelling.com
Wildlife tours – 01720 422212 www.islandwildlifetours.co.uk