If you've got curly hair, you'll probably know better than anyone that one person's curly hair isn't the same as another person's. In fact, there are different kinds of curly hair, each of which requires different types of care, styling techniques and curly hair products to maintain and nourish your locks.
Understanding different curly hair types and figuring out which category your hair falls under is the first step towards creating a haircare routine that works for your hair type. This includes choosing from the best shampoos for curly hair, finding out the best hair brushes that work for your hair type and using these products to keep your hair healthy and well-maintained.
Why is my hair curly?
As well as genes, there are other factors that make hair curly. This includes the hair follicle and the hair shaft.
The hair follicle is one of the main factors and on someone with straight hair, the hair follicle will look perfectly round, however on those with curly hair, the hair follicle will have an oval shape and the flatter the oval shape is, the curlier/kinkier the hair will be.
The way the follicle turns into the scalp is also taken into consideration. Follicles on straight hair will appear vertical from the skin into the dermis and those with curly hair will have more of a curve.
In more simple terms, the curlier the hair, the longer it will take for sebum to travel down the hair – this is why curly hair tends to be a lot drier and in need of moisture.
The disulphide bonds that are on the hair shaft also play a role in what makes hair curly. The shaft refers to the hair itself, and what we see growing out of our head. Our hair is made up of Keratin and protein structures Disulphide Bonds and Hydrogen Bonds help to hold the protein structures together and therefore play a pivotal role in the shape of our hair and how curly it is. Typically, on straight hair, disulphide bonds are evenly distributed throughout the hair, whereas on curly hair, they are kept more together on one side, resulting in waves/curls/kinky hair.
Hair Type Chart
What type of curls do I have?
According to the chart pictured above, it is easy to figure out what kind of hair you have by observing how your natural hair dries after a shower. I have noticed this is when your hair's natural curl patterns show up most prominently. If your hair hardly has any waves, then it falls under the category of Type 1 -Straight hair.
However, if you do see gentle waves in your dry hair, you have Type 2 – Wavy hair. If the pattern of your hair resembles loose coils or curls, then your hair falls under Type 3 – Curly hair and if the curls are much tighter, then it is classified as Type 4 – Kinky hair.
The alphabets that follow the numbers indicate the level of waves, curls or coils in your hair and the higher the alphabet, the more textured your hair is. Since we are looking to understand curly hair types in depth, we will get into more details about Type 2 hair and onwards up to Type 4 hair.
Curly Hair Types
Type 2 – Wavy
Wavy hair is the between stage of straight and curly.
2a wavy hair has a light tousled appearance with little volume, whereas 2b waves are a little more defined with slightly more volume. Celebrities like Kate Winslet have this hair type.
2c waves are more defined with body and volume and often contain some curls too. Think light waves, soft waves and defined waves. You can see this hair type on celebrities like Simone Ashley.
Type 3 – Curly
Curly hair has more of a spiral shape, volume, tends to be drier and in need of more hydration in the form of moisturising products, leave-in conditioners and creams.
3a curls are defined, full and voluminous curls while 3b curls are tighter, ‘springier’ and more spirally. Celebrities like Zendaya have this type of hair.
3c curls are tight corkscrew curls with a lot of volume and body. This kind of curls can be seen on celebrities like Beyonce.
Type 4 – Coily and Kinky Hair
Coily and kinky hair ranges from being S-Shaped to more Z-shaped. The curls are a lot tighter and can therefore make your hair appear shorter. These hair types are more prone to dryness, tangles and breakage and thus requires more care to keep it looking and feeling its best.
4a hair are S-shaped, tightly coiled corkscrew curls whereas 4b curls are more tightly coiled and have some bends that resemble a z-shape. They are less defined than 4a curls. 4c is the tightest form of curl and are z shaped. They are tighter and denser. Celebrities including Golda Rosheuvel, Kerry Washington and Lupita Nyong’o have type 4 curly hair.
Why is it useful to know your curl type?
As someone with curly hair, I can share that it is so important to know your curl type to be able to look after and care for your curls the right way and with the right products. Curlier and coilier hair types require a lot more intense hydration than straight hair. On the other hand, using very intense hydration products on straight/wavy hair can have negative effects, making it appear oily, weighed down and flat. So it’s essential to use products best suited to your hair type that will enhance the look of your hair and keep it healthy.
Knowing your curl type will also allow you to become more aware of the styling options and colour services available to you. Some styling and colour services will cause more damage to certain kinds of hair and you may want to stay away from these. For example, bleaching may not be the best option for those with very coily hair that’s already prone to a lot of breakages. Those with curly hair may also want to stay away from styling their hair in tight ponytails and updos that can cause friction and lead to breakage. Instead, those blessed with curls should try and embrace their gorgeous natural hair texture as much as possible!
What are the best type of products for curly hair?
For curly hair, I’ve noticed that it pays off to invest in a good quality moisturizing shampoo and conditioner as it forms the base of your haircare and cleaning routine. With age it is natural for hair to become more prone to dryness and dullness. So if you feel your hair could use some extra hydration, you can also consider some of the best shampoos for dry hair. You can also pamper your locks with a leave-in treatment or hair mask once a week to keep on top of hydration.
The LOC method - Liquid, Oil, Cream – is great to keep curly/coily hair types nourished and hydrated. With this method, you use a liquid (which can be a detangler or leave-in conditioner) that should be sprayed into the hair first. Then you can apply oil along the lengths of your hair, paying special attention to the ends that tend to dry out soon. Finally, you can style your hair with a cream or gel. This method keeps moisture sealed in, leaving your hair looking luscious and hydrated until your next wash day.
How to take care of wavy hair?
Wavy hair can be prone to frizz as well and therefore needs moisturising products and treatments. However, wavy hair does not require these treatments as regularly as curly hair, as too many products and moisture can make wavy hair look oily and weighed down. Alternatively, instead of a moisturising shampoo, conditioner and treatment, I would say that wavy hair types will benefit from an anti-frizz shampoo and conditioner and then a moisturising treatment. The anti-frizz shampoo and conditioner will not be as moisturising and heavy for wavy hair, but it will work to combat the frizz wavy hair is prone to.
Meet the expert:
This article contains expert advice from Delroy Davy. Delroy is a consultant curly, textured and afro hair specialist at Rush Hair. On his Instagram profile, Delroy showcases his specialist Afro styling. This brought in a wealth of clients, leading Delroy to get promoted to Senior Director. His unique talent has helped Delroy work with Avlon, the leading and preferred brand for Afro Textured hair. He also won the Afro Category at the 2018 Hair Magazine Awards.