If you've got curly hair, you'll probably know better than anyone that one person's curly hair isn't necessarily the same as another person's. In fact, there are actually many different types of curly hair.
Working out the type of curly hair you have is the best way of knowing exactly how to look after your hair (such as the best hair brush to use) to get the best results and keep it as healthy as possible.
Why is my hair curly?
As well as genes, there are other factors that make hair curly. This includes the hair follicle and the hair shaft.
The hair follicle is one of the main factors and on someone with straight hair, the hair follicle will look perfectly round, however on those with curly hair, the hair follicle will have an oval shape and the flatter the oval shape is, the curlier/kinkier the hair will be.
The way the follicle turns into the scalp is also taken into consideration. Follicles on straight hair will appear vertical from the skin into the dermis and those with curly hair will have more of a curve.
In more simple terms, the curlier the hair, the longer it will take for sebum to travel down the hair – this is why curly hair tends to be a lot drier and in need of moisture.
The disulphide bonds that are on the hair shaft also play a role in what makes hair curly. The shaft refers to the hair itself, and what we see growing out of our head. Our hair is made up of Keratin and protein structures Disulphide Bonds and Hydrogen Bonds help to hold the protein structures together and therefore play a pivotal role in the shape of our hair and how curly it is. Typically, on straight hair, disulphide bonds are evenly distributed throughout the hair, whereas on curly hair, they are kept more together on one side, resulting in waves/curls/kinky hair.
Types of curly hair
Type 2 – Wavy
Wavy hair is the between stage of straight and curly.
2a wavy hair has a light tousled appearance with little volume, whereas 2b waves are a little more defined with a slight volume and 2c waves are more defined with body and volume and often can contain some curls too. Think light waves, soft waves and defined waves.
Celebrities including Emma Stone, Amanda Seyfriend and Jennifer Anniston have type 2 wavy hair.
Type 3 – Curly
Curly hair has more of a spiral shape, tends to be drier and in need of more hydration in the form of moisturising products and treatments.
3a curls are more classic, defined curls. 3b curls have more volume and are tighter and ‘springier’ and more spiral and 3c curls are tight corkscrew curls with a lot of volume.
Celebs such as Zendaya, Rihanna and Beyonce all look to have type 3 curly hair types.
Type 4 – Coily and Kinky Hair
Coily and Kinky hair curls range from being S-Shaped to more Z-shaped. The curls are a lot tighter and can therefore make the hair appear shorter. These hair types are more prone to dryness, tangles and breakage and require more TLC to keep the hair looking and feeling its best and moisture sealed in.
4a are S-shaped and tightly coiled corkscrew curls, 4b are very tightly coiled and have some bends that resemble that of the z-shape. They are less defined than 4a curls. 4c is the tightest form of curl and are z-shaped. They are tighter and denser.
Celebrities including Kerry Washington and Lupita Nyong’o have type 4 curly hair.
Basically – the higher the number, the curlier the hair!
Why is it useful to know your curl type?
It’s so important to know your curl type to be able to look after and care for your curls to the best of your ability. Curlier and coilier hair types require a lot more intensive hydration than that of straight hair. Using intensive hydration products on straight/wavy hair too much can have negative effects on the hair, making it appear oily and becoming weighed down and flat so it’s essential to use products best suited to your hair type that will enhance the look of your hair and keep it as healthy as possible.
Knowing your curl type will not only help you to know what products to use on your hair, but it will also allow you to become more aware of the styling options and colour services available to you. Some styling and colour services will cause more damage to your hair and you may want to stray away from these. For example, bleaching may not be the best option for those with very coily hair that’s already prone to a lot of breakages. Those with curly and curly hair may also want to stay away from styling their hair in tight ponytails and updos that can cause friction to the hair and lead to breakage. Instead, they should try and embrace their gorgeous natural hair texture where possible!
What are the best type of products for curly hair?
For curly hair types, I always suggest using a good quality moisturizing shampoo and conditioner and also a treatment once per week to keep on top of hydration. The LOC method is also a great method to use for curlier/coilier hair types. This stands for Liquid, Oil, Cream and is a method used to moisturise natural hair types and keep the moisture sealed in the hair. The liquid (which can be a detangler or leave-in conditioner) should be sprayed into the hair first, then the oil which can then be layered with a cream. This should be done on damp hair and left in to give hair a surge of moisture.
Wavy hair can be prone to frizz and therefore should also use moisturising products and treatments, however, they may want to use their treatments less regularly to avoid the hair becoming oily or weighed down. Alternatively, instead of a moisturising shampoo, conditioner and treatment, I would say that wavy hair types may instead benefit from an anti-frizz shampoo and conditioner and then a moisturising treatment. The anti-frizz shampoo and conditioner will not be as moisturising and heavy for their hair type, but it will work to combat the frizz their hair may be prone to.
About the expert
This article contains expert advice from Delroy Davy. Delroy is a consultant curly, textured and afro hair specialist at Rush Hair. On his own Instagram profile, Delroy showcases his specialist Afro styling. This brought in a wealth of clients, leading Delroy to get promoted to Senior Director. Because of his unique talent, Delroy has worked with Avlon, the leading and preferred brand for Afro Textured hair, and won the Afro Category at the 2018 Hair Magazine Awards.