When you hear 'perm hair', you might automatically think about the bushy perms of the 80s. But nowadays, it's so easy to get yourself a beautiful and modern hair perm at the salon and the trend is continuing to grow in popularity. If you think this youthful hairstyle idea could be for you, celebrity stylist Michael Douglas of mdlondon explains more about what you need to know.
What is perm hair?
Permed hair is an abbreviation for permanently curled. Chemicals are used to change the structure of your hair (into either waves or curls), permanently, until it grows out. This makes it a great alternative for using hair waver tools. Perm hair is suitable for anyone who wants body, movement and curl.
What’s different about modern perms?
The basic science behind permed hair and the chemicals used hasn’t changed in 50 years. But the techniques in how it’s applied have changed with the times to reflect modern styles. So the rollers used today, for example, are different from the ones used in the 80s.
The whole process takes about two-three hours in total. The rollers are put in first, then chemicals are applied. The hair is rinsed for a minimum of six minutes. A hydrogen peroxide solution - called a neutraliser - is then applied for a further 5/10 minutes. Once the rollers are removed the hair is rinsed, conditioned and styled as if it was naturally curly.
Rollers and techniques vary but the basic fact is the hair will mirror whatever it is wrapped around. So rollers can go in horizontally or vertically for instance, and this gives a slight variation. Most rollers are round but other shapes are available - just remember that the new hair curl will mirror the shape of the roller. So depending on what style you're after, the hair technician will use rollers accordingly.
Can perm hair cause hair damage?
The ammonia and peroxide used will cause a small amount of damage to the permed hair, as the cuticle gets opened up and so the hair becomes more porous which can cause a small amount of decomposition. But if it’s done properly by a professional, you’d barely notice any difference.
How long does a perm last?
The permed hair remains until it’s cut out. You have to consider that new - unpermed - hair is growing all the time. It’s different for different people but at a rate of roughly a centimetre per month.
How should you style a perm?
You should style a perm the same way you would with naturally curly hair. Use a blow dryer like mdlondon BLOW plus the hair diffuser attachment
You're still able to use heat styling tools such as hair straighteners but you should aim to keep the heat low to prevent frying and even losing your perm.
Because you now have curly hair, you'll want to start using a range of good and affordable products that are suitable for curly or wavy hair. Michael recommends the Umberto Giannini brand.
1 of 3Umberto Giannini Crème de Curl Control Cream
This invisible hydrating cream will de-frizz, moisturise and define natural curls. It also protects from heat styling when curl tweaks call for a little heat to straighten things out.
2 of 3Umberto Giannini Curl Jelly Wash Shampoo
Suitable for all types of waves, curls and coils, this shampoo gently cleanses, moisturises and gives glossy, bouncy definition plus its sulphate free with vitamin B5.
3 of 3Umberto Giannini Curl Whip Curl
Bring out your curls with this high-definition mousse. It's weightless with a frizz-free finish and instantly transforms limp, undefined hair into super shapely curls and with no nasty crunch in sight.
How should you look after a perm?
You should take after your perm in a similar way you would with coloured hair - use a mild shampoo and conditioner, and a weekly treatment. Curly hair can generally be washed less frequently than straight hair.
Meet the expert: Celebrity stylist Michael Douglas has taken his wealth of knowledge and experience to become a household TV, radio and social expert for hair. His easy styling and haircare tips continue to empower audiences with the guidance and tools to achieve their dream hair at home.