Is retinol really worth the hype?

You may have heard about the ‘wonder’ ingredient that is retinol. It’s the so-called gold standard of skincare ingredients. A product that beauty experts rave about and with the scientific backing to show retinol actually works.

Yet, anecdotes of the alarming side effects (think peeling and irritation) and confusion around all the different retinol types, mean that few of us are brave enough to give it a go.

But how truthful are the rumours and is retinol as good as they say? We spoke to Dr Sophie Shotter from Illuminate Skin Clinics, to find out if retinol is really worth the hype.

The science of skin

A derivative of skin-boosting Vitamin A, retinol is considered to be the ultimate ingredient for tackling ageing signs. It’s also one of the few skincare ingredients with research backing its claims.

“Retinol is a powerful stimulator of our fibroblast cells,” says Dr Sophie. “These fibroblast cells are responsible for collagen, elastin, hydration and cellular turnover in the skin.” Put simply, our skin’s health is dependent on these four things.

“As we age these skin cells switch off and produce less of these vital skin components, which is why we start to see ageing signs,” explains Dr Sophie. “Retinol, when applied topically, works to increase the numbers of fibroblast cells in the skin and to boost production of collagen and hyaluronic acid.” The result is skin that thinks and looks younger.

New kid on the block

Retinols have actually been rattling around our bathroom cabinets for years. The charms of Vitamin A were first discovered in 1931, but it wasn’t until the Sixties that dermatologists began to see its potential as a skincare phenomenon.

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One of the first versions, Retin-A, was (and still is) an effective acne treatment, using a strong form of retinoic acid called Tretinoin. As well as being useful for acne, the other side effects of reduced lines and pigmentation caused quite a stir.

It did, however, also cause a lot of unsightly skin reactions. It wasn’t until the milder version of retinol hit the skincare scene, that we began to see results with more manageable side effects.

Know your retinols

Retinoids is an umbrella term for many different forms of retinol, from those that are only available by prescription, to those that are commonly found in face creams on the shelves.

“Each of the different types of retinol can be effective for different skin types, so it’s about finding the right retinol product for your skin,” says Dr Sophie. “A good starting point is with Retinyl Palmitate because being the weakest form of retinol it’s better suited to sensitive skin. Retinaldehyde is next in line, but the most common form is Retinol, which is the strongest available without a prescription.”

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You’ll also see different strengths of retinol, but stronger isn’t always better as Dr Sophie explains. “Retinol is most commonly found in 0.3, 0.5 and 1 per cent formulations. Occasionally you’ll find a two per cent formulation, but I always recommend starting with a lower concentration and building up to minimise irritation.”

Let’s get started

So, how do we get started? Very gradually is the advice from the experts.

“Because retinol can be irritating, start by adding to your night routine, either as your last step before bed or apply a moisturiser over the top,” suggests Dr Sophie. “A pea-size amount is enough for the whole face and start by using it just twice a week. After two weeks increase to every other night. In another two weeks increase to every night if your skin can tolerate it.”

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Don’t be surprised though if your skin doesn’t take kindly to regular application. “Some find they can’t use retinol more than once or twice a week without excessive side effects,” explains Dr Sophie. “These should go away within a month, but if your skin feels sore and irritated give it a few days off before trying again.”

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Retinol myth-busters

It thins the skin

“While there may be some peeling initially, retinol stimulates the collagen-producing cells in the dermis, which in turn actually helps to thicken the skin,” says Dr Sophie.

Results will show immediately

False we're afraid! Results can vary depending on how much there is to repair and it can take up to six months to see results with an over-the-counter retinol.

If you experience redness or peeling, you should stop

When you start using a retinoid, it's completely normal to experience redness, peeling, dryness, or irritation while your skin is acclimatising - this is one of those products where you need to trust the process. These side effects usually subside after a few weeks when you can then expect those glowing results.

If you're just beginning with retinol, it's recommended to start with a milder percentage and work your way up or use a vitamin A derivate that's kinder to sensitive skin. Retinyl retinoate, retinyl palmitate, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, and adapalene are the least likely to cause irritation.

However, if you experience burning, soreness, blistering or bleeding, you should stop using and let your skin calm down, and return to normal before trying again.

All retinoids are the same

There are loads of different variations of retinoids, from type (as Dr Sophie explored above), strength, and form, with moisturisers, serums, and overnight creams.

You shouldn’t use retinol around the eye

Dr Sophie says, “nowadays, there are some great eye creams containing retinol. Introduce sparingly and gradually, just as you would the rest of your face.”

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