How to master the ‘Curly Girl Method’ for gorgeous frizz-free curls

Photos of senior women with curly hair

by Akhila Thomas |
Updated on

Having curly hair can feel fabulous on days when your locks look effortlessly beautiful, but it can also feel like a piece of work when your hair is frazzled with frizz or dryness. As someone with curls myself, I can tell you with confidence that all you need to do is figure out a hair care routine along with the best curly hair products that work for your hair type to bring out the best version of your curls.

If you are blessed with curly hair, waves or coils, chances are you must have heard of the ‘Curly Girl Method’ – a tried and tested method to take care of curly hair. If you are not familiar with the concept and looking for advice on taking better care of your curls, I am here to break it down for you, explain what the Curly Girl Method involves and how it can work as part of your hair care routine.

Benefits of the Curly Girl Method

As someone who has been using Curly Girl Method to take care of my curls for almost 5 years now, I can confidently state that it improves the health of your hair and makes it look better than when you brush it down, hoping to tame the frizz. The Curly Girl Method is all about using gentle products, deep conditioning, styling your curls the right way according to your curl pattern and above all – hydration.

What determines the health of your hair and the way it looks naturally is hydration and retaining the moisture and natural oils in your hair. This is a big part of the Curly Girl Method which focuses on deep conditioning and avoiding styling tools and heated devices that cause dryness and frizz. This directly contributes to your hair feeling stronger, shinier and smoother with more defined curls.

What is the Curly Girl Method?

The Curly Girl Method was originally created by Lorraine Massey, curly hair expert and founder of the first Devachan Salon and the brand CurlyWorld.  She is the woman behind the ‘curl by curl Devacut’ technique which revolutionised the way curly hair was being cut and styled in salons. It was in her book ‘CurlyGirl: The Handbook’ that the Curly Girl Method was introduced for the first time ever.

Lorraine Massey attends the 2012 Step Up Power Hour at Metropolitan Pavilion on May 22, 2012 in New York City
Lorraine Massey introduced the Curly Girl Method in her book 'Curly Girl the Handbook' in 1999 ©Dave Kotinsky / Contributor - Getty

The method involved 3 simple steps - cleansing, conditioning, and styling – which will ensure your curls are maintained, nourished and enhanced. The best part about the Curly Girl Method is that it is designed to work on any type of curls or waves.

1. Cleansing

The most important thing about your cleansing routine is to make sure that your shampoos are water-soluble and sulphate free. This will help keep your scalp clean without damaging your curls or drying out your hair by stripping off the natural oils. Lorraine Massey also shares that the frequency of your washes can depend on your lifestyle and how healthy your hair is.

If you work out or travel often, you may find that you need to wash your hair more, in which case it is absolutely essential to find a gentle, sulphate-free shampoo for curly hair. Curly hair is also more prone to dryness which is why frequent washing is not often recommended, but as long as your hair feels hydrated and healthy, it is up to individual preferences.

2. Conditioning

This step is of utmost importance when it comes to hydrating your curls. Choose a water-soluble, silicone-free conditioner for curly hair that is gentle and nourishing. The quantity of conditioner you use should be based on the texture and health of your curls. Tighter and drier curls will require more conditioner to seep through and keep your strands conditioned. Similarly, damaged hair that has been subject to blow-drying, heat-styling, colouring or chemical straightening will need to absorb more conditioner. It is always to safe to use more conditioner than less.

Lorraine Massey recommends the ‘squeeze-quench’ method of combing the conditioner down your hair until you hear a squishy/squelchy sound like feels like wet seaweed when squeezed to make sure ‘hydration penetration’ has been achieved.

The Curly Girl Method recommends that you keep some or most of your conditioner in your hair and this may come across as strange as we are so used to washing away all the product from our hair. You can also opt for the best leave-in conditioner that works for your hair. But Massey explains that this is because curly hair will benefit from retaining that extra moisture to stay hydrated and frizz-free.

3. Styling

This step is where the magic happens as it defines how your curls are going to look after they have dried. After your shower, it is important to dry your curls using a microfiber towel, an old cotton t-shirt or a bamboo towel that will not cause too much friction and agitate your curls. Avoid rubbing too much and try soaking, plopping your hair to dry it.

The next step is using a curling cream, gel or mousse to define your curls. It is also important to make sure that your product is water soluble and silicone-free as it going to be in your hair for 2-3 days. Different types of curly hair require specific ways of styling that works best for them. Understanding your curl type and trying different styling methods will help you understand what works best for your hair.

Curly hair before and after

If you are looking for a visual representation of curly hair before and after using the Curly Girl Method, this is my hair brushed out, without any styling and after trying this method to clean, condition and style my hair.

Akhila's curly hair before and after using the Curly Girl Method
Akhila's curly hair when it is brushed out and dry versus after following the Curly Girl Method when it is washed and styled ©Akhila Thomas

Curly Girl Method products

Following the Curly Girl Method is simple because it does not require you to spend a lot of money on unnecessary products or investing huge amount of time in styling your hair. All it requires is good shampoo, a trusty conditioner and a styling product that you are comfortable and confident about using.

Tested

Best sulphate free shampoo

Tester holding the Minimalist Maleic Bond Repair Complex 3.5% Hair ShampooNATALIE KNOWLES
Price: £12.99
Alternative retailers
Walmart$19.50View offer

Aimed at repairing weak and damaged hair, Minimalist Maleic Bond Repair Complex 3.5% is enriched with maleic acid, amino acids and transglutaminase that repairs and prevents damage to hair bonds. It's effective against hair damage that can be caused by heat styling, colouring, straightening and UV exposure. Minimalist claims a 13.1% increase in the tensile strength of hair fibre after one wash. This is a balanced, sulphate-free shampoo that gently cleanses without drying out hair.

Our tester is 40 years old and has mid-length colour treated hair. She tested Minimalist for several weeks and found it to be an outstanding shampoo for nourishing hair which is prone to being dry and frizzy. The shampoo is opaque and has a creamy texture. It's thicker than a standard shampoo and there's no discernible fragrance. The liquid forms a thick, creamy dense foam to lather into hair.

"You don't need much, albeit if you have longer hair you may find yourself getting through the 250ml bottle faster. It almost feels like there's conditioner in it. It left my hair feeling silky and nourished. I could easily get a brush through my hair and the shampoo's detangling formulation means less hair breakage overall. Also, my hair can look dull, and I think this shampoo improved its shine. I recommend Minimalist as a sulphate-free haircare product that helps repair and prevent damage for all hair types," she added.

If you are keen on exploring more options, finding the best sulphate-free shampoo that works for your hair does not have to be difficult with our extensive list of tried and tested products.

Pros

  • Free from fragrance, sulphates and essential oils
  • Hair feels nourished, stronger and shinier
  • Suitable for all hair types
  • Repairs and protects against hair damage caused by environmental stressors and styling

Cons

  • If you have longer hair, you'll soon get through the 250ml bottle

Tested

Best conditioner to lock in moisture

Tester holding the Kerasilk Repairing Conditioner for Dry, Damaged HairNATALIE KNOWLES
Price: £21.17
Alternative retailers
Walmart$35.00View offer
Newegg$40.00View offer
Newegg$40.00View offer

Kerasilk Repairing Conditioner is a vegan formulation that contains Biomimetic Silk & Hyaloveil®, to moisturise and protect hair. It claims to reduce breakage and nourish brittle hair, so strands are fortified, root-to-tip.

Our reviewer, Commercial Content Writer Natalie Knowles, aged 40, says, "My hair is dry and I've recently started having it coloured to hide my grey. This repairing conditioner is just want I need in order to soften, revitalise and strengthen my colour treated hair." It has a lovely subtle scent and luxuriantly absorbs into hair. Upon rinsing, hair feels softer, more supple and silkier. "I was even complimented on my hair looking less frizzy than usual. I'm convinced enough to continue using Kerasilk," she added.

There are several other conditioners for dry hair to enhance moisture retention and hydration in your hair if you are looking for more options.

Pros

  • Repairing conditioner, containing a form of hyaluronic acid (Hyaloveil®) which locks in moisture
  • Highly nourishing and restores elasticity
  • Visible results after one wash

Cons

  • Premium product so it is a bit expensive

Tested

Best curly hair product for styling

Curlsmith Weightless Air Dry Cream 237mlAkhila Thomas
Price: £9.24
Alternative retailers
Sephora$12.50View offer
Ulta$12.50View offer
Nordstrom Rack$12.50View offer

The Curlsmith Weightless Air Dry Cream 237ml tops our list of the best curly hair products as it is a versatile leave-in conditioner that also helps to define your curls. This product has been tested and reviewed by Akhila Thomas, beauty and wellness writer for Yours.co.uk for over 4 weeks now. 

The formula is lightweight and feels silky smooth on your hair, making sure it does not weigh down your curls or lead to excessive product build-up. This makes it suitable for fine hair too. I have fine hair that is also curly and this cream works wonderfully for my hair type. 

I take a generous amount and comb it through my hair and then scrunch it up to help the curls clump together. I also finger coil my hair whenever I have the time and make sure I don’t mess with the curl pattern once it sets. It does a really good job of making your curls stay defined and set until your next hair wash, even after spending entire days out in windy weather. 

The formula does not feel too sticky and dries fast. It also enriched with Castor Oil, Babassu, Jojoba and Murumuru Butter to add more moisture to your hair as curly hair is more prone to dryness. The only downside is that it falls in a slightly higher price range.

Apart from this product that tops out list, there are several more tried and tested curly hair products to explore so you can find the best ones that work for your hair type.

Pros

  • Works as a curling cream to define and hold curl pattern for a long time     
  • Also has the benefits of a leave-in conditioner·      
  • Comes with added Castor Oil, Babassu, Jojoba and Murumuru Butter to nourish and moisturise hair
  • Formula is lightweight and makes it suitable for all hair types 

Cons

  • Falls in a slightly higher price range

How to look after curly hair?

According to the Curly Girl Method, looking after your curly hair includes following the three steps, using the right kind of products and avoiding tools that could cause damage to your curls. Lorraine Massey firmly advocates avoiding brushes or combs as it can interfere with curl formation, cause breakage and increase frizz. Instead, she recommends using your fingers to brush through your hair only when it is wet or has conditioner in it.

It is also best to avoid heated tool for drying or styling as high heat levels such as 450 degrees can strip moisture and cause more dryness. Instead, she suggests opting for air drying or diffusing to keep your curls hydrated.

Wavy hair routine for beginners

If you feel you have wavy hair that does not form tight curls, yet would benefit from some extra moisture and definition, then you can follow the Curly Girl Method on wavy hair as well. Our SEO content strategist Ella Croft has been following the Curly Girl Method for maintaining and styling her wavy hair for a few years now and she has shared her haircare routine with us.

“I have tweaked the Curly Girl Method according to how it works best for my wavy hair and when it comes to the first step – shampooing, I wash my hair about twice a week so it has time in between washes to be nourished by the natural oils, so they aren't stripped away too often,” says Ella.

Ella's wavy hair after using the Curly Girl Method
Ella's wavy hair appears more defined after using the Curly Girl Method ©Ella Croft

1. Washing

On wash day, Ella likes to coat the ends of her hair in argan oil for about an hour or so, as this really gives her dry ends a deep condition.

“When washing I use a gentle and moisturising shampoo, which I use once or twice depending on how greasy my hair is. On days where my hair feels like it's got a bit of build-up, I'll use a more clarifying shampoo, but I don’t use this very often as I find it a bit too drying,” she says.

2. Conditioning

After shampooing I'll apply conditioner to my ends, making sure my hair is sopping wet as I find the conditioner is more effective when it is, and then leave in for a of couple minutes. If I have any tangles, I'll just gently rake my hands through when it has conditioner in.

I'll then rinse out the conditioner, turn my head upside down and start scrunching to form those waves. I'll use a teeny bit of conditioner or leave-in, mix with water in my hands, and then scrunch into the ends.

I then wrap my hair in a soft cotton t-shirt for 5 minutes. I don't find I need to scrunch my hair with the t-shirt, just doing it with my hands works best for me.

Once I take my hair out of the t-shirt, I'll scrunch a bit more, adding water to bits that have dried too quickly. I leave my hair to dry with no heat. Once it is half or fully dried I'll take a drop or two of argan oil, rub between by hands and very lightly coat the hair where it tends to get frizz and then scrunch the ends with the excess.

3. Styling

For styling her hair, Ella likes to the Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Shine products which have been her favourites for years now. For wavy hair, applying the product along the length of your hair, followed by scrunching up and leaving it to dry will do the trick of adding more definition to your waves and making the style last longer. It is also important to not apply too much product as it can weigh down your hair, making it look greasy or flat.

Ella's wavy hair before and after styling after following the Curly Girl Method
Ella's wavy hair when it is wet before styling versus after styling when it is partially dry ©Ella Croft

Curly Girl Method FAQs

Is my hair wavy or curly?

When your hair is wet, does your hair look straight and dries to form natural waves? That means you have natural wavy hair that can be improved to enhance wave patterns and definition with the right styling techniques. 
If you hair looks wavy and dries to form curls, that means you have curly hair and the best way to identity your curl patterns is to understand the different types of curly hair – ranging from Type 3 A,B, C to Type 4 A,B C depending on how tight your curls are. The higher the number and alphabet, the curlier your hair is.

How to bring out natural curls?

The best way to understand your natural hair type is to observe how your hair looks when it is wet and air dries naturally. Regardless of whether you notice light waves, defined curls or tight coils, you can bring out your natural curls and enhance the definition by following the Curly Girl Method, using the right products, styling your hair according to your hair type and making sure your hair stays hydrated and moisturised. 

It is important to use water-soluble products, sulphate and silicone free shampoos and conditioners, hydrating leave-in creams, nourishing oils and gentle styling tools and products to bring out the best version of your hair by enhancing its natural texture, whether it is waves or curls.

What is plopping hair?

Plopping is a hair drying technique that works wonders on curly hair. After your hair wash, gently wrap your curls in a microfiber towel or a cotton t-shirt and plop it on top of your head. This will soak up the excess water and allow your hair to gradually air dry. Plopping your hair minimises frizz that is caused by rubbing a towel and maintains curl patterns and definition without disturbing it while drying.

How long does the Curly Girl Method take to work?

The results of following the Curly Girl Method is instantaneous when it comes to seeing the effects of styling. You can see that your hair looks defined and shinier when it dries. But it might take longer to see that your curls are getting healthier from within by following the Curly Girl Method that is infusing more moisture into your curls and protecting the natural oils in your hair. By sticking to the routine for a few months, you will begin to notice that your curls look more nourished, hydrated, healthier and shinier.

What are the cons of the Curly Girl Method?

As someone who has been following the Curly Girl Method for several years now, the only downside of using this method is that you may notice some product build up over time with frequent use of leave-in styling creams or conditioners. What I do is not use any leave-in products for a few washes and taking a break to cleanse my scalp. But you can also use some of the best clarifying shampoos on the market to clear any product build-up that may have happened.

Akhila Thomas is a digital writer at Yours.co.uk and her areas of interest are beauty, fashion, food, wellness and lifestyle. She has previously written for magazines like Leftlion, Women’s Health and t’Art and worked extensively with art, culture, fashion and social media trends. She also likes to travel and explore new cultures and cuisines.

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